Cutting Down/Digging Up The Tubers/Winter Storage

For me the new season starts right after the previous one has ended when I need to dig up the tubers from the plots.  In Cornwall the general climate is such that the tubers can be left in the ground over winter, however because I propagate a lot of my own stock then I need to dig them up for overwintering in the heated greenhouse.  A few days before removing the tubers I cut down all the old stems and foliage to about 9" from the soil level.  I usually leave the digging process until as late as possible, say last week in November or first week in December (any later than this then the soil would be too soggy making the job a very unpleasant one).  I would not dig them up any earlier than this (I have known growers dig them up in September) because the Autumn months are the period when the tuber is growing in the ground and so I leave them giving them the time to do this.  Also I consider overwintering tubers to be the most critical and difficult time in the cultivation process.  I carefully dig them up with a fork ensuring that I do not insert it too close to the tuber for fear of damaging them.  I leave the tuber on the soil surface for 24 hours allowing them to dry a little and for some of the loose soil to loosen further and drop off. 

After digging up the tubers and leaving them on the soil surface this is the time I prepare the greenhouse, firstly emptying it of everything including staging, pots, trays and so on.  When it is completely empty I sterilise the greenhouse using Jeyes Fluid at the standard strength, leaving the door open for ventilation.  The next day and the greenhouse is dry I carry out a winter storage method that is completely different from any other grower I know.  The books tell you to remove all the old soil, cut down the remaining stems, trim off all the old 'rats tails', bore a hole through the middle and sterilise them.  I have not done it this way for years simply because in my opinion as soon as you start introducing a knife and cutting into the tuber you are greatly increasing the chances of disease, mildew and rotting.  My method is based on my theory of it being better to keep the tubers growing on (around 4 years ago the National Dahlia Society speaker said exactly this, so backing up my belief of several years).  Firstly I lay a Plantex weed suppressing membrane on one side of the greenhouse floor, covering this with 2 bags of Bullrush Multi-Purpose Compost (I have never had a bad bag of this, very consistent).  I have an 8'x6''' greenhouse and this allows me to store around 50 - 55 tubers.  I lay out the tubers on top of the compost with old soil intact, then backfill using more of the same compost, and in all use almost 3 bags of it. I do not water in as the tubers need to be kept almost dry. Using this process where the tubers will root into the compost I rarely lose one tuber whereas using the old method I would lose around 15 - 20%.  I then maintain a lit paraffin heater.  This storage process lasts from the beginning of December until Mid February, some 10 weeks.

     Tubers laid out on the greenhouse floor

Soil Conditioning

Around the middle of January is the time of year I condition the soil by turning them over and adding some 'goodies'.  I have two sets of plots with 56 dahlias being grown at my West Cornwall home address and 46 dahlias at my parents West Cornwall address.  This year the additives used were:  Camborne - Superdug Extra (1 pint/square yard), Maxicrop Seaweed Meal (6oz/square yard), B&Q Chicken Manure Pellets (10oz/square yard), and Beacon - Superdug Extra (1 pint/square yard) Shoregrow Soil Conditioner (2oz/square yard,  B&Q Chicken Manure Pellets (10oz/square yard).  This was turned over into the top foot of soil and the soil is left apart from adding spent compost from the greenhouse just thrown over the top, until adding the base dressing (more of this later). 

    A 'Trelyn Kiwi' plot with added 'soil conditioners'

Setting Tubers On The Bench

Mid-February has arrived and this is the time of year when I bring the tubers out of their winter storage.  I carefully take each tuber out of the compost layering with roots in tact (roots will be in evidence following this 'growing on' process).  The old compost is not wasted however, as I spread this over the plots, not for any feed content as this will surely be exhausted, but merely as part of the soil conditioning programme.  Each tuber is placed to one side allowing me room to clean and brush out the greenhouse ready for bringing the staging benches back in.  

For encouraging the tubers in producing cuttings material I place them in polystyrene fish boxes sourced from aquatic shops having firstly sterilised them with bleach beforehand.  Into each box I place a layer of compost about 4" deep, my preference being either Bullrush Multi Purpose with added Jon Innes or the Westland equivalent again with added Jon Innes.  The added J.I. giving body and retaining moisture far better than compost alone.   I then water the compost using Maxicrop Seaweed Feed (Growth Stimulant) or an alternative being Seasol Seaweed Feed, and underneath the boxes I light paraffin heaters as I do not have electricity in the greenhouse.  24 hours later and the compost should have lightly warmed, having lightly trimmed each tuber, cutting the stem away to just above the crown and removing any 'wiggly' or unrequired large pieces, I nestle each tuber into the compost ensuring there are no gaps under the tubers.  I fill in around each tuber with more compost being careful not to bury them.  I water them in again using Maxicrop Seaweed Feed or Seasol Seaweed Feed, being careful not to water over the crown area as there is a risk of rotting.  I wouldn't water again for about 2 weeks, and then commence watering ever 6 or 7 days depending on the general Spring heat.  The first shoot 'eyes' should be in evidence after about 1 week although cultivars vary in this regard.  Apart from twice weekly filling up the paraffin heaters, that is it, now eagerly anticipating the cuttings material.  

Taking/Rooting Cuttings (my 'no bottom heat' method)

About 5 to 6 weeks after setting up the tubers on the heated bench the first shoots are around 2.50 inches in length and can be cut from the tubers.  However, different dahlia cultivars vary greatly in this regard, for example Kiwi Gloria (sc) is excellent as a cuttings provider, whereas Staleen Condessa (msc) is poor.  I much prefer striking my own cuttings because I know the measures I take but I do not know what everyone else does in terms of cleanliness.  Dahlias can carry virus no matter how rare and if precautions are not taken to at least localise that possibility then you could be asking for trouble. 

Compost: you must use a quality compost and I recommend to you Bulrush  (alternative: Erin) or Westland's as consistently providing me with excellent products (for several years I have used Bulrush Multi Purpose and Westland Multi Purpose with added Jon Innes, for 2009 I  used Bulrush Multi Purpose with added Jon Innes and Bulrush Forest Gold with added John Innes being a peat reduced/timber based compost).  Others: Bowers Perlite if I were using  a straight compost withoud added J.I., Maxicrop or Seasol seaweed based growth stimulants, scalpel with a new blade each year, Baby Sterilising Fluid (an alternative being Methylated Spirits), Bio hormone rooting powder (I think any brand would be fine), a tile, marker pen, labels, a pencil for dibbing, sprayer, propagating trays with lids, 40 block cell trays.

    Bullrush Forest Gold with added Jon Innes

  Maxicrop Seaweed Growth Stimulant    Seasol  

Procedure: the night before I am taking cuttings I add the compost to the cells (an alternative being small plant pots), lightly firming it, then water in with Maxicrop Seaweed Feed (alternative Seasol), leaving this overnight to saturate.  The next day as soon as there is enough light (never when the sun is fully up), I take the first cuttings removing them just above the tuber.  I then place each on the tile and cut  just below (about 1/16") the bottom leaf node leaving the cutting about 2" long, and I always remove that very bottom pair of leaves (so leaving the cutting with a pair of leaves and an undeveloped pair at the top).  I dip each cutting into the hormone rooting powder, and using a pencil dib a hole about 1/2" into the compost, inserting  the cutting about 1" deep, 1 cutting per cell,then add a label (I prpare labels several weeks before saving time).  I sterlise the blade in the fluid before returning to a different tuber even if of the same cultivar.  When all available cuttings are taken I lightly spray with tepid water from my greenhouse butt.  I place a propagating lid over the cells and place under the bench.  My cuttings take around 24 to 28 days with no bottom heat, which is a long while but I find them to be unstressed and ready for potting into either 3" pots or plastic drinks cups using the same compost.    

      Cuttings material on the tubers

      Cuttings ready for dipping in rooting powder

      Cuttings in cells ands in the tray     

      Cuttings in the propagating unit complete with lid

I continue taking cuttings for about 4 weeks (mid-March until mid-April).  It's a gradual process then of moving them into bigger 3" square pots or if the root looks a little small then I will repott into plastic drinks cups allowing them time to produce a fuller root. 

My rooted cuttings (mini-plants at this stage) are moved out into the cold frames in late April depending on the weather conditions.  I regularly check them looking at the rootball and potting into a 4" pot if needed, and also looking for any pests however rare.  If I get to mid-May with about 2 weeks until planting out and a mini-plant is looking a little 'rooty' I will still pot on because to leave it in the pot would cause a check in growth and restrict the roots. 

Base Dressing

Two weeks before planting out, say the second week in May, I add a base dressing to the plots.  I have tried different products but for 2009 I used the following -  Camborne plots: Vitax Q4 at 4oz/square yard, Beacon plots: J.Bowers Bonemeal at 4oz/square yard.  This is lightly riddled into the top few inches of soil using a hoe or rake.  Alernatives would be any brand of Growmore or Fish, Blood & Bone etc.

  Vitax Q4 used for base dressing plots

Planting Out

I usually plant out my dahlias, weather dependant, the last weekend of May, when the risk of frost by then is highly unlikely.  For this procedure I use the following tools and products: a garden trowel (or small builders hand trowel), Epsom Salts (any brand), Maxicrop (or Seasol) Seaweed Growth Stimulant, multi-purpose compost (the part bag left over from taking cuttings).

Supports: I already have in place my dahlia supports consisting of wooden posts concreted into the ground and by using metal poles (or bamboo canes), cheap clothes line, 4' lengths of thick plant support wire I make effectively 18" 'boxes' and each dahlia is planted into the centre of each box.  The usuall method is to use a single bamboo cane say 5' in length and pushed into the soil then each dahlia is planted close to this cane.  The choice is an individual one and for 2009 I have used both methods. 

Planting: remembering to give all dahlias a watering and an insecticide (Bug Clear preferred) spray the night before I begin planting early in the morning as follows: dig a hole in the middle of each 'box' (the soil is friable enough to do so by hand but we have 5 cats who dig around bringing glass to the surface) deep enough so the dahlia sits about 1" below the soil level, add a handful of compost into the hole and lightly stir it around, knock the dahlia from it's pot and break off the bottom pair of leaves, if the dahlia is a bit 'rooty' then gently tease the roots open otherwise leave, place the dahlia in the hole, backfill with soil leaving an indentation around the plant so water flows to the roots and not over the sides.  When all dahlias are planted I put mothballs and slug pellets around them (pound shops sell these) to keep the butterflies off from laying their eggs.  Then water in using Maxicrop at 10ml/gallon and Epsom Salts at 1 teaspoon/gallon giving each dahlia about 1 ping of water each. 

    Kelsae Carla (see the supports, and moth balls)

My aim is that the dahlias start creating a firm anchorage underground, and not be 'lazy', speading out surface rooting because of over zealous watering, so after this first watering I will not water again for sat 11 - 14 days, weather dependant.  In other words, if really sunny then water earlier but basically do not mollycoddle the dahlias.  That is it apart from keeping an eye open for pests such as greenfly.  

Growing On 

11 - 14 days (usually 12 on average) after planting I apply the second watering of 1 pint of water with added Maxicrop Seaweed Growth Stimulant.  Watering is then applied every 2 or 3 days (using the same Maxicrop), weather dependant, gradually increasing, so that by the beginning of August I am giving the dahlias over 1 gallon of water each (more of this later).  Also at this stage I commence hand weeding.  Dahlias have many near surface roots so I am happy to hand week, not using a hoe.  Another advantage I think is that getting down closer to the plants in order to hand weed I can keep check of any possible pest attack.  I had weed weekly until applying the mulch. 

Supplementary Feeding - Balanced Feed

At 4 weeks after planting I commence feeding using Maxicrop Complete Garden Feed (alternative being any brand of Liquid Growmore), this is basically the same as Maxicrop used up until now plus feed content.  Also if not already started I will commence spraying with Roseclear (or Bug Clear/Fungus Clear seperately) ensuring tops and bottoms of leaves are sprayed to 'run off'.

          Maxicrop Complete           Scott's Roseclear

Stopping

If the dahlia is allowed to grow of it's own accord then the main central bud will grow on eventually producing a flower.  During this time it is sending a hormone down though it's length suppressing the lower buds.  Dahlia growers pinch out the central bud whereby allowing the lower ones to grow on thus producing a bushier plant.  This process is known as 'stopping'.  When this is carried out very much depends on the dahlia being grown and the shows being aimed for, and again is where sound record keeping every year is imperative.  Also some dahlias I stop twice to get enough stems on with blooms produced so making more and smaller flowers in order to fir through the judging rings (all serious dahlia exhibitors should have a set of these). Here I am giving examples of when I stop a few of my dahlias with the aim being to start showing the middle of August:

Cultivar                        First Stop Date                Second Stop Date

Trelyn Kiwi                  mid June                           not required

Marys Jomanda         a week after planting      when stems have 3 pairs leaves

Weston Pirate            a week after planting      when stems have 3 pairs leaves

Kelsae Carla               4th week June                  not required

Debranching

The second week of July has arrived and it is time to think about another procedure in the dahlia exhibitor's vocabulory, called debranching (or you may hear of  'securing stems').  Basically this is a process, again depending on the dahlia being grown, whereby  after the stop was applied and the lower buds grew on making stems, they may be reduced to a required number so that those left produce blooms that are large enough, but not too large, so as to 'foul' the judges ring.  Again record keeping is a must.  So what do you do if you have never grown a particular dahlia before and you are now faced with the necessary action of debranching it?  I would apply whatever is average for it's class eg, Giant, Large, Medium, Small, Miniature etc.  I would suggest at least in the conditions of my home county of Cornwall to secure the following number of stems unless experience dictates otherwise: Giants: 3 or 4; Large 4 or 5; Mediums 6 or 7; Small 7 or 8; Miniature 12 minimum; Pompons as many as possible.  Here I am giving examples of the number of stems I allow to grow on a few of my dahlias:

Cultivar                        Stems secured (left to grow)

Trelyn Kiwi                  7

Marys Jomanda         18

Weston Pirate            20 plus

Kelsae Carla               7

In performing this process on say Trelyn Kiwi or Kiwi Gloria which both usually produce 12 stems after 'stopping' I first remove any weaker or crossing stems, leaving 7, looking to have a 'balanced plant' with stems growing away from one another.  On the other hand on Weston Pirate I need to have as many stems on the plant as possible because the blooms naturally go oversize and more stems 'take the steam' out of the resultant blooms.  Therefore after the second stop I would not remove any stems at all.

   Paul (the author) debranching 'Ruskin Helen' 

Mulching

A week after debranching I apply a mulch around the dahlia plants completely covering the soil.  I use straw which is purchased about 2 weeks beforehand and left outside for any rain to wash out possible chemicals.  Before covering the soil with the mulch, if it hasn't been raining then I give a thorough watering.  I spread the straw mulch out at a depth of about 4" completely covering the soil and bringing it touching up to the dahlias (this eleviates the need for further weeding). 

  Paul (the author) mulching 'Trelyn Kiwi'

  'Marys Jomanda' mulched with a 4" straw layer 

Disbudding

The stems will grow on now and at the end of each will be a centre bud and one or usually two side buds (commonly called wing buds).  It is usual to remove the wing buds when about 1/2" long and some further side buds down the stem (dependant on the cultivar grown).  I would not carry out this too soon as there is a danger of breaking into the centre bud causing a kinked stem.  However, for anyone a little clumsy then I would suggest using a manacure scissors or a sharp tweezers.  The centre bud soon lengthens and it is this retained bud that will produce the treasured bloom.  Here I am giving examples of the number of buds removed on a a few of my dahlias, but without removing too many so that the resultant bloom isn't too big to fit through the judges ring (again record keeping has enabled me to come to these figures):

Cultivar                        Buds removed

Trelyn Kiwi                  Wing buds plus all other shoots

Mary's Jomanda        Wing buds plus next pair down the stem

Weston Pirate            Wing buds only

Kelsae Carla               Wing buds plus next 2 pairs down the stem

   Here I am removing 'wing buds' on Mary's Jomanda

Knockback/Timing

Some cultivars just want to grow away and we call them 'earlies'.  Kelsae Carla is a prime example and I utilise a 'knockback' action each year with an eye on 'timing' for the shows ahead.  Basically I will knock out the centre bud on a stem plus say one of the wing buds allowing the other wing bud to grow on producing the bloom (one of the wing buds is always a little more mature than the other).  With Kelsae grown '7 up' (7 stems secured after debranching) I will retain the centre bud on say 3 stems, grow on one of the wing buds on 2 stems, and grow on a lower shoot on the remaining 2 stems.  This helps to spread out the bloom production hopefully in time for the shows, rather than having a glut of blooms and then nothing. 

Supplementary Feeding - High Potash Feed

A few weeks after the disbudding procedure and the stems have lengthened and at last we have secured buds.  At this stage that I change the feeding programme for one of a high potash feed, my preference being Maxicrop Tomato Feed (alternatives being Tomorite, J.A. Bowers) feeding weekly at 20ml/gallon water and 1 - 1.25 gallons water per dahlia every other.  In between feeds I am still watering every other day with no feed.   

  Maxicrop Tomato Feed

A lot of growers use the Chempak soluble feed range throughout with Chempak 4 being the high potash feed (alernatives being Phostrogen Tomato Feed).  I use liquid feeds because they readyily mix with water under the running tap of the butt, whereas powdered feeds have to be mixed thoroughly and even then always seem to leave a sediment in the bottom of the watering can.  This is the last feed change and will be used until cutting down.

Greasing Stems/Using The Torch

Although I spray on a weekly basis, still the pesky pests try their upmost to spoil my dahlias.  Damaged leaves are one thing by slugs/snails but in this country foliage is not judged (strange but true) so not so much of a concern although I do determindly aim for clean, unbitten leaves.   The damage afforded to blooms is another matter entirely, so what other action can I take:

Greasing Stems - when the dahlia stems have lengthened and the buds are 'showing colour' any damage now is disasterous (think of those paper shapes we made as children unfolding to reveal pretty patterns).  It's the same with dahlias opening up, complete riunment and fir for the compost heap.  To help against this I use Vaseline Petroleum Jelly and apply a layer about 2" long at about 4" below the bud.  This does make it very difficult for the earwigs to climb up the stem.  * It must be wiped off before placing the cut dahlias in the show vases. 

     Paul (the author) greasing stems using     Vaseline Jelly - I find it's the best for this job being of a high density

The Torch -  as the buds are opening up, at about 9.30pm when it's dark then I go around with a powerful torch (3 million candle power or above) armed with a tweezers and look out for earwigs, slugs, snails etc.  I find pest attack varies year on year, and in 2009 my precautionery measures and ever watchful eye, have kept most potential damage at bay.  However, in creating this website and taking up a lot of my evening time I am finding on some blooms at Beacon (Ruskin Amanda, Susan Gilliott mainly) that some opening buds are chewed by what looks like earwigs).  This and greasing the stems are the only tasks I haven't had time to fully commit to but it's difficult to be in two places at once, almost impossible!   

August Shows

My first dahlia show is the middle of August (being 16/09/09 this year) competing at The West Cornwall Dahlia Club Main Show, Chacewater Garden Centre (a one day event).  There will in the region of 130 plus vases including a few gladioli (I also exhibit gladioli at a 'village show' type standard).  The quality is generally a high one and to win a 'Best Vase In Show' or premier class being 'The Championship', then I need to be on the ball to give myself the best chance of success.  The week  after is The Cornish Dahlia Society Early Show at Tresillian Village Hall, another one day event, with a very high standard of show folk.  A week later is the premier show in Cornwall being The Cornish Dahlia Society Main Show, spread over three days at the beautiful setting of Trelissick Gardens, Nr. Truro. This show brings in many of the top county growers and some from over the border.  Always of a very, very high standard and one where I have had my competion successes. 

Dead Heading

Dahlias are just like any other flower (remember what I said about thinking of the dahlia as a big marigold) in that as blooms are past their best then they must be removed in order to maintain the vigour of the plant in the production of further blooms.

Judging Rings

At 'dahlia only' shows and some local shows judges use judging rings and these are exact measurements as determined by The National Dahlia Society.  Basically where any dahlia is being exhibited in a class, for example a pompon exhibit, then it should be judged against those ideals.  One of those ideals is that all blooms in the exhibit must fit cleanly through the relevant ring without any petals touching the ring as it is passed over.  As an example with the pompon that ring is exactly 2" in diameter and in my opinion this class of dahlia is the most difficult to grow in regards to fitting through the ring.  Typically they can be oversized and I have seen blooms being so big that the ring sits on them like a mexican hat.  This is where double and triple stopping of pompons and light disbudding comes into play.  In other words the more stems and resultant blooms the pompon carries then naturally the smaller those blooms will be enabling them to fit through.  Again I stress the importance of record keeping here.  

Staging Dahlias For Exhibition

Dahlia shows usually have classes requiring that dahlias are vased singly, in threes, in fives, or for poms even nines and twelves.  For this topic I am referring to my experience of staging in threes and fives (I will not spend time regards to singles as the skill level needed is of a lower requirement).  Whether threes or fives I always use the relevant judging ring so ensuring each bloom fits through because the blooms can increase in size in the crates.  I also use a cane marked at 28.50" for measurung the top of the back bloom in each vase, thus greatly helping when setting up several vases in an exhibit in terms of 'even' staging.  

Three blooms in a vase - for exhibition the norm is to stage two dahlias at the back and one in front and whilst I agree this is preferable and more pleasing to the eye and  indeed what I would do if at all possible it is by no means a ruling.  So, if I had one bloom slightly more mature than the other two then I would very proably put that one at the back and the other two in front.  One reason being that the larger bloom will appear slightly smaller as it is further away when looking straight on.  Or another factor could be a bloom with a less than 45 degree angle.  I always use Oasis (or similar) cut flower foam (see my Advice Sheet 5 with regards to preparing it).  

Five blooms in a vase - Always use three dahlias at the back, with the centre one being a little higher than the other two, and two at the front so that they are lower than the lowest two back ones.  No blooms should be touching. 

Preparing vases and using Oasis - before arrival at the show I have already cut some pieces of stem for plugging gaps in the Oasis (see below).  For staging any blooms I prepare several vases by allowing the Oasis to soak up the water.  I do this by rolling up some newspaper and placing in the vase so that it will touch the bottom of the Oasis when inserted later, then pour some water into the vase about 1/2 way up, drop the Oasis into the vase and it sits about 1/4" above the rim, push the Oasis down using my fingers and it then sits about 1/2" below the vase, pour water into the vase until brimming.  After the Oasis has been given a good chance to soak up water, I take the first bloom and line it's stem against the outside of the vase and it's top against a stick marked at 28" for the height of the top of the back bloom/blooms.   I then visualise the where the Oasis is in the vase in terms of depth and cut the bottom of the stem accordingly.  I then push the stem into the Oasis, checking against my marker, and adjust the stem so that the bloom is at an angle of 45 degrees (if any holes are made by moving the stem over then I fill these with plugs of previously cut stem).  NEVER push the stem into the Oasis so that it breaks through the bottom of the Oasis, it should be push about half way or so in.  I then do the same with the next back bloom, finally insert the front bloom so it is lower than the back two.  I also use a paintbrush for removing dust and dressing petals (this is not a job to be hurried).  Vasing 'fives' follows the same steps with a higher degree of skill level.

   My 3 Mary's Jomanda, WCDC 16.08.09 (2 at back/1 front)

    My 5 Trelyn Kiwi, WCDC 16.08.09 (3 back/2 front) 

To Cover Or Not To Cover

I have to say at the outset here that some people assume that covering their dahlias will provide the final solution and the quality will be unsurpassable from then on.  Well my take is this, I would suggest you do not puchase covers and the timber until a) you have served your apprenticeship having grown dahlias to a good standard, b) you feel you can justify the cost, c) you are prepared to provide all watering requirements irrespective of the rain falling outside.  In my opinion covering dahlias for bloom protection is not the be all and end all and if you cannot get the basics right especially excellent soil preparation then forget them for a time.

What do I cover - any small classifications and bigger (eg. small cactus and upwards)

What do I not cover - miniature classifications  and smaller (eg. miniature ball and downwards)

When do I cover - last weekend of July weather dependant, just as the buds are opening

Basically the bigger blooms taking longer to open are far more subsceptiple to our fickle weather, and so especially mediums/large/giants must be covered to obtain competitive bloom quality and peace of mind to a large degree.  However, if I could fortell the weather forecast and found that we would have nil rain for the three months of Summer then I would never cover.  But I do cover smalls and bigger and I use plastic covers purchased from D.T. Horn,  9' plus fencing posts, roofing baton, Postcrete, strong plastic plastic support, small stones/bits of brick, screws, double pointed staples, drawing pins, a level,  a hammer, an electric drill/screwdriver.

1) Having measured out your area to be covered and allowing a 3' path around your plots then dig a hole in each corner 2' deep.

2) Put the first fencing post into the hole, asking a partner to hold it up, so it is 2' in the ground and 7' above, then pour some of the Postcrete into the hole and add some water, using the level ensure is straight all round, throw in some stones/bits of brick, pack down with an old piece of wood, add more Postcrete/water/stones, pack down, build up like this to say 6" below the sooil surface.  Concrete in the other fencing posts in the same manner and leave overnight to dry. 

3) Next morning backfill each hole with soil and firm it down.

4) Using the roofing baton screw this to each post at 3' above soil level all round (never have covers from top to bottom as a good air flow is needed, and if you wish to provide protection lower down the framework then use Rokolene or similar).

5) Secure the plastic plant support foring a roof and using double pointed staples or nails (very important as the cover alone is not strong enough to hold up the weight of rain).

6) On a wind free day, with a partner, place the cover over the framework and one of you holds it taught and the other fixes it down in stages using drawing pins. 

7) Using roofing baton screw this all round at the same level as the first lot of baton was secured (see 4), using screws at every 12".

That basically is all there is with regards to my method for covering, thou you could paint timber first with say Cuprinol.  My covers stay in place from last week of July until mid to late October.  I never leave them in place during the winter because I know from experience how this is asking for trouble.

Transporting Blooms To A Show

One aspect of exhibiting dahlias sometimes not given enough attention is one of how to get them to the show.  Everyone I know showing dahlias would travel via a car or van.  Remember, having spent months planning, preparing the soil, growing on cuttings, planting out, feeding and more, if I cannot safely transport them to the show then all that would be a waste of effort and time.

I use home made wooden crates with hurdles going across the top and to these I have screwed clothes pegs with comparitively wide jaws allowing the dahlia stems to fit without crushing.  In the crates I have a series of cut down plastic blottles, the sort for Fairy Liquid and the like.  These are for holding the water during transportation.  I cut each dahlia in turn sometime prior to showday, bring them to and measure them against the crate so that when the blooms are placed in the crate the bottom of the bloom is about 1" above the crates hurdles.  Simply a case of placing the stem in the plastic bottle, opening the peg, inserting the stem and releasing the peg.  I find pegs preferable to twist ties because with ties there is a danger of having them so tight that the stems cuts into the stem or if too loose the blooms move in transit and bruise against each other.  Of course the crates are made in such a way that with the blooms in place the whole lots fits comfortably under the inside of the car.

Alernative methods of transporting blooms are for example similar to mine but using the red milk crates.  Another  way is by using large plastic containers (the sort used for containing jam etc) placing chicken wire in the bottom to stop stems sliding, then tying stems to the inside of the containers.  Whatever method is used, safe transportation is imperative.

For transporting Pompons I would use an ice cream container into which I had placed Oasis, having tied a split cane to each stem, I would then push the stema nd cane about 1" or more into the Oasis.  And that should safely carry my 'poms'.  

    A method of carrying blooms using a container and canes

Always Learning

It's never too late to learn as I found out when ready to leave home for staging my dahlias at the West Cornwall Dahlia Club Show 16th August 2009.  I literally went to pick up a full crate of 16 dahlias including my prized Trelyn Kiwis and accidentally stepped on the loose crate bottom.  The same crate bottom requiring about 1/2 dozen pins that I said to myself I would fix.  The bootom opened up on one side and the plastic containers of waters fell through.  Fortunately I had left bottom leaves on the dahlia stems and although they get crushed on insertion they do help in stopping the dahlias possible turnming around in the crate.  Therefore the crushed leaves held the dahlias up unmoved and then I hade to lift each of the 5 five dahlias in turn whilst still in each ones peg, thus enabling me to push the plastic container back into their slots and refill.  I then had to lift the crate into the car ensuring I kept my hand on the crate's bottom and the day was saved.  The crate is repaired now but just shows not to put off something that may seem inconsequential now but that could have disastruos effests later.  So take a look at my 'Best Exhibit In Show' photograph of the 5 Trelyn Kiwi then bear in mind how things could have been very different.  Fate, luck call it what you wish but a huge sigh of relief from me, and just trust me on that one!

This is basically it in regards to my methods for the cultivation of dahlias.  Several topics covered on this page will concern dahlia exhibitors only, and so if you are interested in the dahlia for growing in the garden only then I would stop the dahlias no matter what cultivars they are at say 8" high in order that they then 'bush out'.  Other steps including debranching, disbudding, transporting and so on will not need to concern you.  For the growing of dahlias for general garden use I have included my Advice Sheet No.4, the same one as I provide for anyone who contacts me regarding the subject matter and for passing to buyers of plants at The West Cornwall Dahlia Club plants sale. 

Dahlia Suppliers

As written above I largely propagate my own cuttings and enjoying doing so.  However, from time to time I either have to 'back up' my own stock where a cultivar has proven to be a poor/inconsistent cuttings provider or where I wish to add a different cultivar to my existing stock.  I have used several suppliers over the years and some I remain with and recommend and unfortunately some others once tried, never used again.  Here I am listing suppliers I recommend as providers of quality plants first and foremost, excellent packing, delivery on time, and so on.

Halls of Heddon:  I and many growers would name Hall's as the first name for purchasing dahlias from.  They sell quality plants that are soundly packed and they provide a comprehensive advanced sales list in August and a full list around December/January.  I have bought from them since I started growing dahlias and they are highly recommended by me.  I have had misnamed plants in the past over 3 seperate years which as an exhibitor with carefully laid plans is an obvious downer,  however the customer liaison has been first class and replacement plants have been provided in the following year.  Hall's plants are to my knowledge the most expensive, however as an exhibitor dependant on quality material this is not a consideration for me.  Having a heated greenhouse I order my dahlias for mid-April delivery and Halls have nearly always provided my plants at the time I require them.  

Station House:  I have purchased from Station House for the past 4 years and have found their plants excellent in both terms of quality and packing, in fact I consider them very reasonably priced as well.  Their plants have one big advantage from other suppliers in that they are practically ready to plant out with rootballs that are pretty close to being of 3" pot size.  However, I suggest that when purchasing from them you ask for May delivery and very soon they will ready for planting out.  In the early days I ordered mid-April delivery plants but found that come planting time they were 'over the top' for me.  They also provide a comprehensive list available around October/November time. Another recommended dahlia supplier.

Trialling suppliers:  each year I often try a 'new' supplier (new to me that is) giving them a small order, maybe 6 plants or fewer, as I do not wish to 'place all my eggs in one basket' (although I appreciate this can be more expensive having to pay another post and packing amount).  After all this is how I 'found' Station House.  I believe in being true to my findings and will happily place future orders if I deem their plants/packing have been as good as any current known supplier, or my own propagated material.  However, I have to say how some suppliers are less than happy to receive constructive criticism even when I am always being honest (so much for guarantees).  Unfortunately I have found some suppliers 'after sales service' to be unfriendly and self-centred.  Indeed, a couple of suppliers now refuse to sell to me anymore because I had the audacity to send them a constructive complaint despite their assured guarantee provision.  This narrow minded view means not only do I not provide future orders but also I will advise my fellow growers of my findings (although I would never tell any grower not to place an order as this is all about personal choice).  I feel when I am paying good money for dahlias, only to find on receiving them that the root is almost non existent or they have aphids or within a few short days nearly all plants die, and so on, then I have a right to complain.  Conversely, when I find a consistenltly  excellent supplier (eg. Halls) then I have no hesitation in recommending them to fellow growers or as here to readers of my website.  For 2010 I have placed an order with a 'new' supplier being Lochend Dahlias from Scotland.